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I was delighted to discover that the traditional Indian blend podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, coarsely crushed spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if made of wood, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 min
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams starchy potatoes, sliced into 4cm chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cubed into 0.8-inch cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two cloves of garlic, peeled and grated
2½cm piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
One red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for nine minutes, then pour off the liquid and leave to steam dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for 5 minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Pour the spice seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the salt, chili flakes, and peppercorns, then mash or process to a rough rubble.

Transfer to a large mixing bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then carefully mix in the ingredients to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then move to a sheet pan and set aside until needed – optionally, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Stir all the sauce elements in a mixing bowl. Preheat the broiler to its maximum heat, then grill the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a variable duration depending on the fierceness of your grill, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, sprinkled with a little more flaky salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.